Day 44: Disco Taxi

So, because it was a school day, there isn't too much to say. I've noticed some of the other students are getting a little pessimistic about being here, but I've been trying to distance myself from them because I have yet to stop adoring Alexandria and Egypt in general. There are still plenty of people here who are enjoying themselves as much as I am and it's great to just sit and compare our experiences so far.

I've been running low on snack foods in the dorm, so Tamar and Megan and I all went to Carrefour after dinner. There's nothing particularly interesting about that except that on our way back, we had a bit of an experience in the taxi.

Taxi drivers in Egypt like to define themselves by their cars. The outsides all have to be the same, so customers know they're registered taxis, but the insides tend to vary a bit. Some drivers cover their dashes in mirrors, others have tassels hanging from the ceiling, some have hung Quranic verses on the walls, the majority of them have fur on top of the dash, etc. This guy had the nicest taxi I've ever seen by far.

Not only were the usually black seats reupholstered in this gorgeous gray leather, but he had flashing blue strobe lights inside about the front and rear windshields, a silver tissue dispenser in the ceiling, and a television playing music videos installed where the radio would usually be. It was nice, but the driver himself wasn't very talkative.

I wondered how the fancy interior and somber demeanor of our cabby boded for our fare. A nice cab isn't any more expensive than a ratty one, but I thought the driver might feel he deserved more than we were willing to pay. A ride from the dorms to Carrefour costs five pounds, however there's usually more traffic on the way back, so we tend to pay a little more. Still, Egyptians have always told us no more than seven for the return trip.

Cab drivers disagree.

It's hard to find a cab driver to agree to take you from Carrefour to the dorms for less than ten, because they know there's no other way for you to get back. The thing is, we've learned not to ask about the fare, but rather to know what's appropriate and just pay it. This, however, usually leads to problems. More so this time.

We didn't even ask him to take us all the way to the dorms. Instead we got out on the McDonald's at the corner, which is easier for him. There had hardly been any traffic at all, seven would have been over paying him, but I happened to have exactly eight in my pocket, and it was a nice cab, so I didn't see why I shouldn't just give him all of it. The driver, however, wasn't happy with that.

I handed him the fare through the window and started to follow Megan and Tamar away from the cab when not the cabby, but the girl who was about the get into the cab calls after me. The driver is out of the car yelling "Tin boul! Tin boul!" and waving the money. I didn't get it at first, because "tin boul" means nothing in Arabic. So I stared at him blankly, taking the money when he starts to shove it in to my hands. It took me a minute to catch on.

Tin boul = ten pound. He wanted ten pounds, like the rest of them, and while I'm usually inclined to over pay just to keep people happy, he was being ridiculous. First of all, it pisses me off when Egyptians try to speak English to me like I'm stupid. Sure, I hadn't had a conversation with the man in the cab, but we'd given him directions in passable Arabic. Besides, 9 times out of 10 I understand their Arabic better anyway.

Second, there was no way I was paying ten pounds for a six pound ride that I'd already paid eight for. So I handed him back the money, told him that was enough, and walked off.

That's really the end of the story. He kept shouting angrily, but didn't follow. Which was smart, because we were near the dorms, where we have guards who would have chased him off. I just thought I'd tell it.

I've had cab drivers put up a fuss before, but usually all you have to tell them is that you know that you gave an appropriate amount and they grumble and accept it, because they know you're right. This was the first driver who was actively belligerent, and the first who kept shouting after I told him I knew what I was doing.

Anyway, just a story for you all, because nothing else of note happened today. Now I have to go finish my homework. Le sigh.