I can't believe how exhausted I am after a Friday, but let it be known that the fact that I'm writing this instead of curling up and falling fast asleep is a testament to how much I love you all.
I woke up early this morning, expecting to go to the beach with Habiba and the girls, but they were no where to be found. We didn't have an exact leaving time though, so I figured they were just running late and started my homework. Lunch time eventually rolled around and I was starting to worry, but I went down to eat anyway and when I came back there was a note on my door.
Apparently the beach was overcrowded this morning, so the time for our excursion had been changed from morning to evening, four o'clock. I didn't really mind, though it did mean I couldn't have tea with Ustaaz Immad. Another time, in sha' Allah.
I did more homework, even took a half hour nap, and when four o'clock eventually rolled around Habiba came to knock on my door telling me Zeinab was running a little late. I didn't mind. I had enough to keep me occupied. Fifteen minutes later, however, she returned to tell me everyone else had backed out of the trip, so it was just us now. That wasn't a problem for me, but apparently the beach is better/safer in big groups, so Habiba didn't think going was such a good idea. Still, she wanted to go out. And so we did.
We knew we were going to miss dinner, so Habiba asked the woman in charge of dinner for the night if we could eat early. And because it was Habiba asking, and everyone loves Habiba, she let us. Let me just say, the food in the dorms is infinitely better fresh. The tomatoes, the grapes, even the chicken was more enjoyable. Mind you, we were eating dinner an hour early and the chicken was already cooked and in the warming bins, so I suppose that's not surprising.
After dinner, our first stop was the citadel at the end of the Corniche. I know I've written a little about it before. It's the castle like building that Ustaaza Radwa took us to our first day here, built on top of the ruins of the Lighthouse of Alexandria. I didn't get to go in when I went with Radwa, so Habiba planned to take me. Unfortunately, it closes at four, so that didn't work out the way we planned.
Still, if you'll remember, the area around the citadel is great for just hanging out. There are a lot of little merchants, and tons of children running around. We bought ice cream and sat on giant rocks just barely in reach of the sea foam and watched the sun set, chatting away. It was relaxing, and fun too. I always enjoy my conversations with Habiba, even if she doesn't believe that Mom isn't Egyptian.
Once the sun was beneath the horizon, we started to wander back towards the city in general, and towards the nearby mosque in particular. Abu Al-Abbas is the most famous mosque in Alexandria. Not only is it gorgeous, but inside is the tomb of a famous and pious Alexandrian in whose memory the mosque was built.
As it turns out, there's a market place under the streets surrounding the mosque that Habiba hadn't known was there. When we discovered it, we wandered around for a while. She was infinitely patient with me as a flitted from window to window looking for appropriate souvenirs for people. We went in a few places, and I bought a few things, but not much. There are a couple things I think I'd like to go back for, but I need to do some research first.
A couple interesting things happened in the market place that had nothing to do with shopping. First, was the wedding we walked in on. It was what the Egyptian's would call a "sha'bi" wedding, meaning lower class more or less, but with certain other connotations. Habiba has this thing for wanting to see brides though, so we sought it out. I had to put on my scarf to get close to the procession, but they welcomed us in like any other guest, sharing their chocolates and candies with us.
Once we left the wedding, I didn't bother to take off my scarf, so when we walked in to the next shop, the second question out of the shopkeeper's mouth (after where I was from) was if I was Muslim. I politely told him I wasn't, but someone nearby must have heard me because when we left that shop after getting a great deal on some jewelry there was man standing out front with a few books.
After verifying that I do in fact speak English, he put them in my hands saying "gift, gift." Normally I don't take gifts from strangers, but with a little help from Habiba I came to understand that he had just bought them especially for me from a nearby shop. What books, you ask? One about Muhammad, one about the beauty of Islam, and one about Christian Priests who have converted to Islam.
I don't have any intention of converting, but I have been wanting to pick up a book or two on Islam, and I figure these are as good as any. Habiba didn't seem to have a problem with me taking them either, so I thanked the man and we went on our way. It was an odd experience, especially since Islam isn't a missionary religion, but I didn't feel like the man was forcing them on me in the least, and as such it was kind of touching. That he would want to give me a gift like that.
Eventually we did make it into the mosque to look around, just in time for the evening prayer, actually. Once the praying started though, there was no room to leave, so we stood in a back corner by the tomb, watching quietly. The tomb isn't anything more than a glass encased box with prayer mats draped over it, but people have managed to slip money into the glass case through the years through openings in the bottom so that there were pounds and piasters all over the place. This really bothered Habiba, because apparently people put money there as a form of charity. Except if the money's in the box, it's not helping anyone, and therefore not fulfilling the givers' Islamic duty.
Anyway, I was glad I got to see a real Sallat in a real mosque, because while I see the girls in the dorm pray every day, there's certainly something different about seeing people gather in such massive numbers to perform the exact same chants and motions in such organized lines. All in the name of God.
I got a lot of weird looks on the way out of the mosque, and a few women stopped to question me. Are you Egyptian? Are you Muslim? Why do you where your scarf like that and not as a hijab? It was a little disconcerting, but they were only curious, and we got out of there quickly enough.
From that point, we didn't have much of a plan, but Habiba had never spent much time in this part of the city, so we just started to wander. Through market after market, deeper and deeper into the city. We saw a lot of interesting things on the way. A store grand opening complete with an entire streets worth of Christmas lights, ear splitting music, and men in giant mascot costumes. A higher class wedding pouring into the street around a beautiful bride and her new husband. A man selling fresh caught sea urchins off of a trash can lid. A group of police officers confiscating goods and fining those street vendors selling with a license - and there were a lot in this particular area.
It was all wonderful. Well, except for the police thing, that was a little sad. The best part though was that nearly everything was cheap. I got the exact same hookah set another girl got in Cairo for one-hundred and seventy-five pounds for forty. I think I'm going to donate it to the Arabic house, as a cultural group activity.
By this time in the night, we'd done a lot of walking. We were a little lost, and lot tired. Habiba asked some men at a tram station for directions and eventually we made it back to Mahatat Al-Raml, the big market place I first went to with Habiba about a month back. Seeing as it was late, about eleven o'clock, we were starting to get hungry again. Habiba took me to this great little restaurant where we got ful and hummus sandwiches on flat bread. They were amazing, and only a pound and a half. I don't remember what it was called, just that the name was very Arab, but I plan to go back first chance I get.
From Mahatat Al-Raml we took the tram back to the dorms. On the ride I learned that Habiba, despite being a literature major who loves to read, has never read Harry Potter. As horrified as I was to hear that, at least I don't have to fret over what to get her as a good-bye present now. I've already seen a street vendor who sells the entire series in Arabic. Hopefully he'll have two sets the next time I pass by.
When we got back to the dorms, Habiba had drink and food orders from some of the girls who were signed in for the night, so we stopped at a shop or two to buy water and chips and biscuits. The juice guy that I like so much was open, but they were performing construction on his building so he didn't have any electricity and the shop was lit by candles. I love me some late night juice, but the shadowy, narrow shop freaked me out a little, so I waited on the street while Habiba made her purchases.
Finally, we made it back inside the dorms. As mentioned previously, I'm exhausted. The combination of the early morning and the long day has my head spinning. There's a trip to the catacombs tomorrow that I signed up for, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm really willing to wake up and go. Besides, I still have a lot of homework. I've seen catacombs before, and these are Roman too, so they can't be that different from the catacombs in Italy.
Still, Moutaz would be a great guide, and I hate missing out on oppourtunities to see things in Alex. But if I were to go, I don't know where we're meeting. And if we're meeting at the catacombs, I don't know how to get there. And I don't have anyone's number who would know. I've pretty much made up my mind not to go, but I'm still disappointed. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to see the catacombs later, even if I don't have my own private walking, talking, Arabic Encyclopedia.
Well, that's it for today. I'm going to go pass out now. Happy weekend everyone!
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